vegetarian in a leather jacket: Joshua Albers

Saturday, April 5, 2014

Holy Cross Abbey, County Tipperary, Republic of Ireland

Holy Cross Abbey. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz, May 29, 2013.

From Cashel we took a slight detour north in order to visit the late Gothic church of Holy Cross Abbey, located near Thurles in County Tipperary. Named for its relic of the True Cross, the abbey was restored in the late 20th century and is once again in use as place of worship and pilgrimage after spending centuries in ruin.

Holy Cross was initially founded in 1168 or 1169 by Donal Mor O'Brien for the Benedictines. However, O'Brien transferred ownership to the Cistercians in 1180, and the abbey remained in their care until its eventual suppression. The current structure was built in the 15th century and contains a number of fine Gothic details, including sculpted pillars and remnants of a frescoed hunting scene. Although much of the sculptural decoration displays an unusual degree of refinement, the abbey's most charming and surprising features are the numerous symbols subtly carved into the interior's stone walls like labor-intensive doodles.

Photo by Joshua Albers, May 29, 2013.

All photos by Renée DeVoe Mertz, May 29, 2013, unless otherwise indicated.

Saturday, March 15, 2014

Muckross Friary and Killarney National Park, County Kerry, Republic of Ireland

Cloister Yew Tree, Muckross Friary, Killarney National Park. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz, May 28, 2013.

A gem hidden within the grounds of Killarney National Park, Muckross Friary is located about a mile (on foot) from the parking lot of the sprawling mansion known as Muckross House. The monastery was once home to the strict order of the Observantine Franciscans, but had a relatively short life as a working friary. In 1541, only about a hundred years after its founding, Henry VIII ordered Muckross’s suppression. It was re-established in 1612, but Cromwellian forces finally drove out the inhabitants and burned the structure in 1652.

Today, Muckross’s most notable feature is the old yew tree that rises dramatically from the center of its cloister. Its bell tower, which was a later edition to the building, is also unique to Irish Franciscan buildings in that it spans the full width of the church.

The trails in Muckross Estate are easily managed and bountifully lined with twisting trees and fields of flowers. However, if you prefer not to walk, jaunting cars (aka, horse-drawn carriages) are available for hire at the parking area by Friar's Glen and Torc Waterfall. Their eager drivers compete to take tourists past the sites along Muckross lake, and are willing to bargain with would-be passengers. The ride should cost around 5 Euro.